Now that the 1200# monster is off the engine stand I can get to the rear main seal. Once again, I will appologize for the poor quality of my pics. If you want to sponsor this site, send me a decent camera. Kidding, of course.
The way to do this, without removing the rear housing and damaging the oil pan gasket, is to drill two 1/8th inch holes i80* from each other in the seal. Be careful not to score the crank or the aluminum housing with the bit. Just centerpunch and drill.
Then I used my slide hammer. You can also drive in a couple of sheet metal screws and pry it out with screw drivers or wiggle it out with vise grips.
Working from side to side and using gentle taps with the slide, I eased it out evenly.
Out.
After getting it free, I cleaned the surface on the crank and on the housing with brake cleaner on a rag threaded over a screwdriver. The wear on the crank from the old seal was not that bad. I planned to drive the new seal in a little deeper than the old one so the seal lips would ride on new material. The new seal comes with this stepped pilot tool to ease the sealing lips over the end of the crank without folding them over causing the new seal to fail. The seal is installed dry.
Ince the seal is started on the end of the crank, the plastic tool can be removed and this tin tool can be used to drive the seal in straight. I drove it in until the tin tool was flush with the end of the crank and it put it right where I wanted it.
The finished product.
Ince the seal is started on the end of the crank, the plastic tool can be removed and this tin tool can be used to drive the seal in straight. I drove it in until the tin tool was flush with the end of the crank and it put it right where I wanted it.
The finished product.
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