I rolled the frame outside today and hosed it down with degreaser the pressure washed it again. You can see that I took out the new cross member and also removed the carrier bearing cross member that was in the way of the front of the fuel tank. The Tranny cross member came from the factory with bolts, so I removed it. the oil and dirt was really packed in around this area, and I wnt to get it cleaned-up for paint. I also removed the steering box. The 1977 box is different than the 1992, and I do not know which one I will be using yet. I also removed the shocks and front sway bar.
Since I need to let the frame dry before I can finish the paint prep, I went to work on the front axle again. Remember, the inner-c or housing yoke on the short side was broken when my donor truck was wrecked. Previously I had ground the weld away where the C is pressed on to the axle tube, and I had beat the snot out of it with a three pound hammer, but I could not get it to budge. Today, I ground on it a little more. You can see I ground too far. I will weld it back and grind it down before I put the replacement C back on.
I do not know if any of you have ever dealt with this type of problem before, but the press fit is tight. I heated it up with the torch to expand the ring and beat on it until my arm was ready to give out and I could not get it to budge. So I got out the port-a-band and cut most of the way through in two places, then beat on it until it broke. Below is the replacement part on top, and the broken part, now in two pieces, below.
When I put the replacement on, I was going to clock it about 4 degrees so I could take the wedge out of my sping pack and restore the caster back to factory specs, but after this, I may have to rethink removing the other side that is not broken. I may cut the tube, clock it, and sleeve it. or I will just put the wedge back in like everybody else.
Since I need to let the frame dry before I can finish the paint prep, I went to work on the front axle again. Remember, the inner-c or housing yoke on the short side was broken when my donor truck was wrecked. Previously I had ground the weld away where the C is pressed on to the axle tube, and I had beat the snot out of it with a three pound hammer, but I could not get it to budge. Today, I ground on it a little more. You can see I ground too far. I will weld it back and grind it down before I put the replacement C back on.
I do not know if any of you have ever dealt with this type of problem before, but the press fit is tight. I heated it up with the torch to expand the ring and beat on it until my arm was ready to give out and I could not get it to budge. So I got out the port-a-band and cut most of the way through in two places, then beat on it until it broke. Below is the replacement part on top, and the broken part, now in two pieces, below.
When I put the replacement on, I was going to clock it about 4 degrees so I could take the wedge out of my sping pack and restore the caster back to factory specs, but after this, I may have to rethink removing the other side that is not broken. I may cut the tube, clock it, and sleeve it. or I will just put the wedge back in like everybody else.
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